FAQS

Free Delivery
We are pleased to offer free delivery on all orders over £60.

Delivery Charges
For orders under £60, delivery charges will vary depending on the size and weight of your package. The exact shipping cost will be calculated at checkout before you complete your order.

Processing Times
Orders are usually processed and dispatched within 2 business days. Please note that during public holidays, processing and dispatch times may be delayed. You will receive a confirmation once your order has been shipped.

Estimated Delivery Times
Delivery times may vary depending on your location:
United Kingdom: 2–3 business days
Europe: 3–5 business days
International: 5–7 business days

Please note that these are estimated delivery times and may vary due to factors beyond our control, such as customs processing, courier delays, or public holidays.

We want you to be happy with your purchase. We have a 30-day return policy, which means you have 30 days after receiving your item to request a return.

To be eligible for a return, your item must be in the same condition that you received it, unused and in its original packaging. You’ll also need the receipt or proof of purchase.

To start a return, please contact us at returns@orangeamps.com with your order number and reason for returning.

If your return is accepted, we’ll send instructions on how and where to send your package. You will be responsible for the cost of shipping the items, and we cannot accept any responsibility for lost or damaged products sent upon return. Items sent back to us without first requesting a return will not be accepted.

You can always contact us with any questions about returns at returns@orangeamps.com.

REFUNDS

We will notify you once we’ve received and inspected your return. If a refund is approved, you’ll be automatically refunded on your original payment method within 10 business days. Please remember it can take some time for your bank or credit card company to process and post the refund. If more than 15 business days have passed since we’ve confirmed your refund and you, please contact us at returns@orangeamps.com

Find an Orange retailer close to you by visiting our Dealer page

Tax & VAT Information

UK Customers
We apply VAT at the standard UK rate to all orders delivered within the United Kingdom.

EU Customers
Following the UK’s departure from the EU, UK VAT is no longer applied to EU orders.
Orders under €150 – EU VAT is collected at checkout under the IOSS scheme, ensuring no additional VAT is charged upon delivery.
Orders over €150 – The IOSS scheme does not apply. VAT and duties are included so your order will arrive without extra charges.

International Customers (outside the EU)
We do not charge UK VAT on international orders. However, your country may apply local sales taxes, customs duties, or import charges. These remain the responsibility of the buyer.

They don’t have to be identical. In most guitar and bass rigs, the difference in resistance between, say, a 1 m and 3 m speaker cable is negligible. What matters more is using proper speaker cable (not an instrument lead) and matching the amp’s output to the cabinet impedance.

Yes, mainly in gauge and length. Thinner cable over longer runs adds resistance, which can shave a bit of level and loosen low-end control, especially with higher-power amps. Use dedicated speaker cable (stranded copper), not guitar leads.

Make sure the amp is powered off. Use a dedicated speaker cable, not an instrument lead. Plug from the amp’s speaker output to the cabinet’s input, and if applicable, set the amp’s impedance selector to match the cab’s load (e.g., 8 Ω to 8 Ω). For valve amps, always ensure a speaker/load is connected before switching on, and never run the amp without a load. Double-check that locking connectors (e.g., Speakons) are seated fully.

Active speakers have the power amplifier built in, so just feed them a line-level signal and mains power. Passive speakers need an external power amp. Active systems are convenient and consistent. Passive systems are modular and easy to scale or service. Choose based on your workflow and what you already own.

Mostly, yes. Drives, modulation, delay and reverb pedals often sound great on bass, but some guitar-targeted fuzz pedals can thin out the low end. Bass-specific pedals help keep the fundamentals intact, but trust your ears: many “guitar” pedals are classics on bass too, and if you like how it sounds, then it’s good for your instrument.

Power it first: connect it to mains power and enough current (mA); we recommend using the power supply included with your pedal. Then attach the input to the guitar using an instrument lead, and the output to an amp. When applying multiple pedals in sequence, the traditional order is tuner > compression/dynamics/EQ pedals > overdrives/distortions/fuzzes > modulations > delays > reverbs, although plenty of the world’s best guitarists ignore this order completely. Again, if it works for you, it works for you.

Some amps come with an effects loop that only applies the effect to the power amp stage of the signal chain. This works particularly well with modulations, delays and reverbs. To set up an effects loop, do the same as the above, but connect the input of the pedal to the SEND socket of the loop, and the output of the pedal to the RETURN socket. Then, plug your guitar directly into the input socket of the amp.

If you want to hear the record, then yes! They need a way to amplify and then reproduce the signal, and this can be done with either powered (active) speakers, or a hi-fi amp and passive speakers. Some turntables come with speakers built in, although these tend to be very low quality in terms of sound reproduction. Remember many turntables output at phono level, which also requires a phono preamp (see below), but some decks, like the O Turntable, and speakers have this built in, so check your model.

Yes, although some turntables, including the O Turntable, include a phono preamp. If your deck has a switchable Phono/Line output, set it to Line when using powered speakers or a line-only input.

Yes. Most modern turntables can handle 12”, 10” and 7” records at 33⅓/45 rpm. Old 78 rpm shellac discs require a deck with a 78 setting and a suitable wider-tipped needle. Don’t play 78s with a standard stylus! Please note that to change the speed of the platter on the O Turntable, the user must remove the platter and gently transfer the belt that ultimately rotates the platter onto a different groove of the motor.

A valve or tube amp uses vacuum-sealed tubes to amplify your guitar signal. The preamp valves shape gain and character, and then the phase inverter drives the power valves, which feed an output transformer to match the speaker load. The result is a dynamic, harmonically rich response. Under heavier loads, the power supply and transformer interact to contribute to that familiar compression that many guitarists love.

An amp head contains the preamp and power amp but no speakers. You must connect it to a suitable speaker cabinet with the correct impedance and power handling. Heads are flexible: swap cabs for different venues/voices, or run multiple cabs for bigger stages.

A combo puts the amp and speakers into one cabinet: it’s grab-and-go and fewer cables. Many combos also provide an external speaker jack for more coverage. They’re great for rehearsals and small-to-medium-sized gigs. For larger shows, mic the combo and let the PA do the heavy lifting.

If it’s a bass combo, then yes, that’s what it’s for. If it’s a guitar combo, keep volumes very low: deep bass can over-cook guitar speakers and cause damage. Better to use a bass combo or an external bass-rated cabinet.

Technically yes, but only really at bedroom levels. It’s not recommended for gigging. Guitar speakers aren’t designed for sustained low frequencies and may fail. Use a bass amp or pair a suitable bass cab with your head. Your tone and your speakers will thank you!

If you want to play through a speaker at a generally audible volume, then, yes, you’ll need a guitar amp or a modeller/interface feeding the powered speakers or PA. Silent or low-volume options include headphone outs, amp sims (hardware or software), or a load box with cab sim. For live use, a traditional amp or a modeller into the PA are both common routes. Some hollow-body electric guitars have an interesting sound when just mic-ed rather than sent through an amp, although it’s a very specialist recording style.

Gain controls how hard you drive the preamp. More gain means more preamp distortion/sustain and earlier breakup. The master volume knob sets the overall loudness. On many amps, you’ll shape your core texture with Gain, then use Master volume to suit the size of the room. A good starting point is to set Master to a practical level, then raise the Gain until the feel and saturation reach the desired effect.